Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Some Blog Filler
Working 70 hrs a week right now, I've had little time to work on the house and won't get to do much till May. So for the locals here is some turn of the century scenery of Ridley Park from my postcard collection....
Monday, March 30, 2009
More Garden Work
This weekend I finally finished the major sanding of the kitchen. Next will be a touch up coat, a final sand, and then I can finally move on to some trim work and paint in the kitchen - I can almost taste it.... nevermind, that's just from sanding dust in my mouth.
Sunday turned out nice outside so I worked on the garden beds. I wanted to add an irrigation system which is much more efficient and better for the plants. But, I didn't want to pay the hefty investment of one. Then I found a plan online to make your own using standard PVC piping.
I built the main header on one end feeding all four beds. At each end is a shutoff valve and quick disconnect to attach a garden hose. I can run domestic water from the house, or from the other end I can run saved water from rain barrels when I get that system set up next year. They will be behind the garage. Each side of the bed gets a feed from the header with another valve to regulate the drip rate. Then branches feed off of these to the plants. The main header is glued, but the bed piping is dry fitted so is can be disassembled for the winter.
A 1/16 inch bit is used to make the holes. Recommended is every 6 inches, or for bush plants, 2 to 3 holes spaced 5 inches apart. Looks pretty good and price was at least half of a normal bought system. A layer of mulch will cover everything up. and help retain moisture. Next step is building some structures for cucumbers and tomato cages. The seedlings are doing good, especially for my first try!
Sunday turned out nice outside so I worked on the garden beds. I wanted to add an irrigation system which is much more efficient and better for the plants. But, I didn't want to pay the hefty investment of one. Then I found a plan online to make your own using standard PVC piping.
I built the main header on one end feeding all four beds. At each end is a shutoff valve and quick disconnect to attach a garden hose. I can run domestic water from the house, or from the other end I can run saved water from rain barrels when I get that system set up next year. They will be behind the garage. Each side of the bed gets a feed from the header with another valve to regulate the drip rate. Then branches feed off of these to the plants. The main header is glued, but the bed piping is dry fitted so is can be disassembled for the winter.
A 1/16 inch bit is used to make the holes. Recommended is every 6 inches, or for bush plants, 2 to 3 holes spaced 5 inches apart. Looks pretty good and price was at least half of a normal bought system. A layer of mulch will cover everything up. and help retain moisture. Next step is building some structures for cucumbers and tomato cages. The seedlings are doing good, especially for my first try!
Saturday, March 14, 2009
A Reason To Post Again
A little motivation and some warm weather got me workin on the house again finally. The kitchen is half sanded and looks like it will be a while before I sand the rest.
In the meantime last weekend I decided to rent a jackhammer and bust up the section of driveway that will become yard again. A large section of yard was made into parking when the place was apartments. But now it's much more than I will ever need and prefer to have some more yard back. I did decide to leave one lane around the side of the garage to park the truck when that retires from everday use to just a weekend hauler. A little intimidating at first, I managed to bust everything up in alittle over 3 hours. Then was the fun job of removing the concrete into a pile, which I've yet to work out the details of where it will go next. I was lucky to get a little help with this chore.
After raking the stones up a bit, I started construction on the raised beds for the new and improved veggie garden. I'm building four beds out of cedar - three will be 12ft x 4ft and one 10ft x 4ft. After plenty of research, raised beds are the way to go. After the initial setup, this style yields better results and is easier to maintain. I filled them with a bottom layer of leaves and compost, then the rest with topsoil. I'll add a few more goodies and mulch the top after planting.
I also started plants from seed indoors for the first time. This is far cheaper and can get an earlier jump on things than store bought plants. Plus you can get a better variety than the limited selection at the garden center. Just a plaine shelf with flourescent lights and using peat pots. We'll see how this works out.
So I had 7 yards deilivered of topsoil. About half went into the beds and half will go on the yard after I get a delivery from my dad. He had to replace his main sewer line so I got about a yard from that. He is also getting sidewalks redone, so I'll be getting a few more yards that I'll use to fill where the concrete came out before I add the topsoil.
Once I get the spring yard work done it'll be back in the kitchen.
In the meantime last weekend I decided to rent a jackhammer and bust up the section of driveway that will become yard again. A large section of yard was made into parking when the place was apartments. But now it's much more than I will ever need and prefer to have some more yard back. I did decide to leave one lane around the side of the garage to park the truck when that retires from everday use to just a weekend hauler. A little intimidating at first, I managed to bust everything up in alittle over 3 hours. Then was the fun job of removing the concrete into a pile, which I've yet to work out the details of where it will go next. I was lucky to get a little help with this chore.
After raking the stones up a bit, I started construction on the raised beds for the new and improved veggie garden. I'm building four beds out of cedar - three will be 12ft x 4ft and one 10ft x 4ft. After plenty of research, raised beds are the way to go. After the initial setup, this style yields better results and is easier to maintain. I filled them with a bottom layer of leaves and compost, then the rest with topsoil. I'll add a few more goodies and mulch the top after planting.
I also started plants from seed indoors for the first time. This is far cheaper and can get an earlier jump on things than store bought plants. Plus you can get a better variety than the limited selection at the garden center. Just a plaine shelf with flourescent lights and using peat pots. We'll see how this works out.
So I had 7 yards deilivered of topsoil. About half went into the beds and half will go on the yard after I get a delivery from my dad. He had to replace his main sewer line so I got about a yard from that. He is also getting sidewalks redone, so I'll be getting a few more yards that I'll use to fill where the concrete came out before I add the topsoil.
Once I get the spring yard work done it'll be back in the kitchen.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Winter Standstill
Not much to report lately. Caught a nasty bug. I have enough energy to go to work and keep the fire going and that's about it. Before things came to a complete hault I was slowly adding coat of mud to the kitchen. I have just about two complete coats done. Also trying to get the rest of the paint stripping done.
I also went through all my door hardware and put together enough solid brass sets for the 1st floor doors. Then I polished everything up on the buffer and installed everything. That's about it lately......
I also went through all my door hardware and put together enough solid brass sets for the 1st floor doors. Then I polished everything up on the buffer and installed everything. That's about it lately......
Sunday, January 18, 2009
It Works! But then......
The powder room project has been one big roller coaster ride. You've already heard about the painting fiasco which finally came to a happy ending. Next was getting the high tank toilet in service.
Two more orders and I finally had everything I needed to put the tank in operation. I ordered new flush and fill assemblies from DEA Bath. They weren't cheap, but the quality was impressive - all copper and brass construction. So I enlarged the hole for the flush and installed everything in the tank. I left the back off so I could do a leak test and see most of the joints in the copper tank.
Well 24 hrs with no leaks I was comfortable to hang it on the wall. I finish up the assembly, hang on the wall.... and guess what?? Yep a slow drip. Take it down, clear RTV the solder joints on the inside of the tank, reinstall - and still a leak. Back down, dissassemble everything, and notice the leak appeared to come from the flush assembly donut through the tank. So I RTV the outside solder joints just in case, then reassemble using some putty along with the donut gaskets. Passed the first leak test without back and final assembly test. Back on the wall this time all was good.
Then it took three tries to get the spud on bowl end leak free. Finished the fill line install and it was ready for business. I must say these units have one heck of a flush! I guess the 7 feet of head pressure helps. So all was right with the powder room and finally could concentrate all my energy to the kitchen........ until
The cold came - I mean the REALLY COLD came. Since the plumbing was redone in the bath/kitchen, I've only had one trouble spot with freezing - right where a cold line 90's up and was against a cinderblock skirting the back section of house. I had a fix in mind for this, but didn't get to it yet. Last year I removed the exposed cinderblock and rebuilt the original style beadboard skirt where the deck didn't cover it. Needless to say it's not airtight, but last winter I had no problems, so figured the pipe insualtion was enough.
Then came temps under 10 degrees and the pipes froze.... all of them! So saturday I spend building a sealed/insulated inner wall around the skirt, and was going to heat trace the pipes until I heard some bad things about that. Ended up just adding another layer if insulation. I got as far as freeing up all but the tub lines and thought I was in the clear. Then I hear the noise and it wasn't the tub starting to flow like I thought.
Go under and see the hole in the pipe. No biggie, I'll cut and solder a coupling at the break. Well no coupling in stock, go to HD and back, couple the pipe and take a look around. Hmmmm, how di water spray over here??? Oh hell, another break thawing out. Then another.... five in all. Its about 8pm at this point, and it ain;t getting fixed today. So I cut out the bad stuff and figure I'll leave the powder room out of commision till I feel like going down in the crawl space again. That was till this morning when Rach tried to do laundry. The cold line tees off this run - back in the hole! So brain storm, I go to HD and pick up a pair of valves with the compression fittings to pop on the lines to the tub. 10 minute job, valve them out, and laundry, toilet and bath sink are back in service. At this point the tub can wait till spring.
The last fix was to open up the crawl space to the basement again as recommended by a friend. Since the space is pretty tight from the outside, it should acclimate to the basement temp and keep the pipes even happier. I built a filler piece when I first moved in to seal this off, and didn't want to completely open this up in case of any critters getting in the crawl space, so I ended up cutting in a vent, which will let the air through and the keep any critters out.
Ah, what an adventure this powder room has been.
Two more orders and I finally had everything I needed to put the tank in operation. I ordered new flush and fill assemblies from DEA Bath. They weren't cheap, but the quality was impressive - all copper and brass construction. So I enlarged the hole for the flush and installed everything in the tank. I left the back off so I could do a leak test and see most of the joints in the copper tank.
Well 24 hrs with no leaks I was comfortable to hang it on the wall. I finish up the assembly, hang on the wall.... and guess what?? Yep a slow drip. Take it down, clear RTV the solder joints on the inside of the tank, reinstall - and still a leak. Back down, dissassemble everything, and notice the leak appeared to come from the flush assembly donut through the tank. So I RTV the outside solder joints just in case, then reassemble using some putty along with the donut gaskets. Passed the first leak test without back and final assembly test. Back on the wall this time all was good.
Then it took three tries to get the spud on bowl end leak free. Finished the fill line install and it was ready for business. I must say these units have one heck of a flush! I guess the 7 feet of head pressure helps. So all was right with the powder room and finally could concentrate all my energy to the kitchen........ until
The cold came - I mean the REALLY COLD came. Since the plumbing was redone in the bath/kitchen, I've only had one trouble spot with freezing - right where a cold line 90's up and was against a cinderblock skirting the back section of house. I had a fix in mind for this, but didn't get to it yet. Last year I removed the exposed cinderblock and rebuilt the original style beadboard skirt where the deck didn't cover it. Needless to say it's not airtight, but last winter I had no problems, so figured the pipe insualtion was enough.
Then came temps under 10 degrees and the pipes froze.... all of them! So saturday I spend building a sealed/insulated inner wall around the skirt, and was going to heat trace the pipes until I heard some bad things about that. Ended up just adding another layer if insulation. I got as far as freeing up all but the tub lines and thought I was in the clear. Then I hear the noise and it wasn't the tub starting to flow like I thought.
Go under and see the hole in the pipe. No biggie, I'll cut and solder a coupling at the break. Well no coupling in stock, go to HD and back, couple the pipe and take a look around. Hmmmm, how di water spray over here??? Oh hell, another break thawing out. Then another.... five in all. Its about 8pm at this point, and it ain;t getting fixed today. So I cut out the bad stuff and figure I'll leave the powder room out of commision till I feel like going down in the crawl space again. That was till this morning when Rach tried to do laundry. The cold line tees off this run - back in the hole! So brain storm, I go to HD and pick up a pair of valves with the compression fittings to pop on the lines to the tub. 10 minute job, valve them out, and laundry, toilet and bath sink are back in service. At this point the tub can wait till spring.
The last fix was to open up the crawl space to the basement again as recommended by a friend. Since the space is pretty tight from the outside, it should acclimate to the basement temp and keep the pipes even happier. I built a filler piece when I first moved in to seal this off, and didn't want to completely open this up in case of any critters getting in the crawl space, so I ended up cutting in a vent, which will let the air through and the keep any critters out.
Ah, what an adventure this powder room has been.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Making Pre-Hung Doors Continued....
So here's a little more on how I built pre-hung doors assemblies using salvaged doors. There may be better ways, this was just the method I came up with. I lay the door on horses opening direction down. After ripping some 1x pine to the jamb thickness I lay them on each side of the door. I use paint sticks as a gap shim between the jamb sides and door, then pipe clamp together to keep stable. Now I can measure for the header piece. I cut the top piece to length and then I router the thickness of the side jamb pieces into each end of the top (half the thickness of the top piece) This leaves a slot on each end for the side pieces to fit into making a nice tight joint. I reassemble the pieces around the door this time using paint sticks for the top gap as well. Now I can mark my cuts for the bottom of the door, which I also had to allow for the thickness that the kitchen floor will be built up. Once these are cut it's time for final assembly. I nail and glue the top joints and shim between the door and jamb assembly again - using pipe clamps as before to hold things together.
I do some quick checks for squareness and then it's time to brace the assembly so it can be moved around for installation. Using the top measurement, I cut three identical length stick (I used scrap from ripping down the jambs). Marking at measured points down each side I then fasten each support to the jamb having the ends flush with the edge of the jamb. This should guarantee that the width stays true from top to bottom of your built jamb. I also add corner bracing at the top. At this point you should have a pretty sturdy assembly and can now mark and mortise your hinges as I showed earlier.
Finally install as you would any pre-hung door. After the unit is installed, just remove the bracing. You may have to do some minor adjusting during the install depending on the condition of the door (it was surely shaved to fit another opening that wasn't square!), but so far I've had pretty good luck with this method and can do one start to finish in a few hours now.
I do some quick checks for squareness and then it's time to brace the assembly so it can be moved around for installation. Using the top measurement, I cut three identical length stick (I used scrap from ripping down the jambs). Marking at measured points down each side I then fasten each support to the jamb having the ends flush with the edge of the jamb. This should guarantee that the width stays true from top to bottom of your built jamb. I also add corner bracing at the top. At this point you should have a pretty sturdy assembly and can now mark and mortise your hinges as I showed earlier.
Finally install as you would any pre-hung door. After the unit is installed, just remove the bracing. You may have to do some minor adjusting during the install depending on the condition of the door (it was surely shaved to fit another opening that wasn't square!), but so far I've had pretty good luck with this method and can do one start to finish in a few hours now.
Monday, January 5, 2009
New Appreciation For Pre-Hung Doors
I'm in door mode right now in the kitchen and powder room. The powder room jamb I built and installed a while back, but never fully installed the door in the jamb. This created some problems during the install and not having the door in which left me with a little planing to do.
I picked up a neat tool - a Porter Cable hinge mortising kit for routering doors/jambs. It's fully adjustable to accept any size hinge and any thickness door and door height. So here is a shot setting it up on the jamb. There are little pins you hammer down to hold the jig in place. Then using a router with a guide, you router out the hinge mortise for each. Then remove the jig and square the corners, since I'm using orignal style hinges.
Next you take the jig and place on the door. There are adjustable ends with markings so you can account for the top and bottom clearances when placing the jig on the door. Then repeat the router sequence. The true test was mounting each half of the hinge to the door and jamb - and then pinning the door in place. Wouldn't you know it went right together! Is was a little pricy a tool even second hand - but when I have 15 or so doors to do from scratch, using salvage doors to boot, it was worth every penny.
So for the next door , the dishwasher closet, I built the jamb on saw horses around the door. But this time I mortised the door and jamb, making a complete unit. Then adding some cross bracing to keep things squared up I installed the complete unit into the opening with no problems. A few shims, nail in place, remove the bracing and call it done. Only things to add was the stop trim and mortise the strike plate for the lock.
The next door (basement) I'll go into a little more detail of how I made the jamb since my camera was dead when I did that part....
I picked up a neat tool - a Porter Cable hinge mortising kit for routering doors/jambs. It's fully adjustable to accept any size hinge and any thickness door and door height. So here is a shot setting it up on the jamb. There are little pins you hammer down to hold the jig in place. Then using a router with a guide, you router out the hinge mortise for each. Then remove the jig and square the corners, since I'm using orignal style hinges.
Next you take the jig and place on the door. There are adjustable ends with markings so you can account for the top and bottom clearances when placing the jig on the door. Then repeat the router sequence. The true test was mounting each half of the hinge to the door and jamb - and then pinning the door in place. Wouldn't you know it went right together! Is was a little pricy a tool even second hand - but when I have 15 or so doors to do from scratch, using salvage doors to boot, it was worth every penny.
So for the next door , the dishwasher closet, I built the jamb on saw horses around the door. But this time I mortised the door and jamb, making a complete unit. Then adding some cross bracing to keep things squared up I installed the complete unit into the opening with no problems. A few shims, nail in place, remove the bracing and call it done. Only things to add was the stop trim and mortise the strike plate for the lock.
The next door (basement) I'll go into a little more detail of how I made the jamb since my camera was dead when I did that part....
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Hey - It Looks Like A Bathroom Finally
The floor has dried, the toe moulding is in, and it's time to install everything. The clawfoot tub is in and hooked up....
As well as the pedestal sink....
and here is what I found under all that white paint - tiger oak
The toilet is in with the flush pipe....
All that waits is the parts to rebuild the high tank. I ordered new fill and flush mechanisms, plus refinished the tank.
In process of stripping the door and then I can try out the Porter Cable router hinge template I picked up second hand. I just may get the powder room finished before the end of the year - maybe....
As well as the pedestal sink....
and here is what I found under all that white paint - tiger oak
The toilet is in with the flush pipe....
All that waits is the parts to rebuild the high tank. I ordered new fill and flush mechanisms, plus refinished the tank.
In process of stripping the door and then I can try out the Porter Cable router hinge template I picked up second hand. I just may get the powder room finished before the end of the year - maybe....
Friday, December 19, 2008
It's A Major Award.....
it just arrived and I know just where to put it!
right in the front room window!
....mind power Swede, mind power.
right in the front room window!
....mind power Swede, mind power.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Painting Nightmare
It all started out pretty well.....
Once I got the initiative to work on the walls, they went pretty quick and the sanding job came out pretty good for not having done any drywall work in over a year plus. I then caulked the ceiling panels into the crown and the crown into the wall, plus the wainscoting trim. Then it was a good coat of primer on everything. The ceiling was done with Valspar ceiling white.
From there though it was downhill quick. I had already picked out colors for the kitchen, bath, and trim work. After work I stopped by Lowes to pick up the paint, but forgot the trim color. So I quick picked out what I thought was an antique white, got the paint made up and was all ready to go. It was Thursday morning when I got to do the first coat. Wednesday I had to put a new engine in the splitter because it threw a rod - but that's another story! Anywho so I put the first coat on the wainscoting and quickly realized that color was really a tan more than a white - oops. After I finished it grew on me some though and actually would go really good with the kitchen green, but the blue I wasn't so sure. So then came the blue. As soon as I started putting it on I knew it was a bust. More of a Miami beach pool blue than something that belonged in an old house. The "Fiesta" in the name should have given it away.
Friday night I wanted to stop by Lowes and get some new colors so I could start Saturday morning. Well I ended up staying a few hours late so skipped Lowes. When I got home there was still time before we had to go to the Neil Young concert (he can still ROCK!) so I stopped at the Depot around the corner and picked out some new colors. I figured I've had pretty good luck with Behr in the past so what the heck.
Then came Saturday.... I start the wainscoting and quickly notice either Behr got worse or working with Valspar all summer put Behr in a new perspective. It was thinner and much worse with runs. When I would go back to touch up a run it would pull the drying paint pretty bad. I got through that and figured I'd clean up with the second coat. It continued to get worse. Then I go to roll out the blue. Cutting in, I liked the color and seemed OK at first - but then going back to drying sections was the same pulling problem. Just didn't seem like it was biting to the wall. Finally rolling it out, the roller would pull where I cut. After two walls I got really frustrated with the paint, worse than anything I'd ever worked with...... then the runs started. I tried to touch up with the roller and again the paint would want to pull off. All right - I'll let things dry before I go on any further. Fifteen minutes later I come back and the damn paint is literally running down the walls! In a panic I go to wipe a run off the wall before it sets, but it already had skinned over and that just made things worse. A bunch of 4 letter words later I walked away to let thing dry over night with a space heater in the room and stopped by Lowes on the way to work and get my third set of colors, and some high build primer - swearing off Behr paint the whole time.
Sunday morning it took over 3 hours using an orbital sander to clean up two half walls in a 5x8 bathroom. It was a real mess. It was never going to come back to the condition I had it with the first primer coat after freshly sanded walls. The corners I used a little caulk to clean the runs up and along the wainscoting joint. The wainscoting would have to wait, one mess at a time. After the high build prime was on things looked a little better. I got the blue on and finally felt a little better.
The wainscoting had some issues with runs in the joints which I'll never get out, just too time consuming. I sanded the flats some and put the new trim color on. Finally things looked good and the scheme was what we had in mind for the room. I installed the vintage porcelain sconce and new gfi and switches. Then another test fit of the high tank and marked where the medicine cabinet I'm restoring will go. Also mounted a vintage TP holder I picked up.
So today with the painting pretty much finished I did a final sanding of the floors and applied some "golden oak" stain which really brought out the oak floors. A couple coats of poly on the floor and I can finally start moving fixtures back in for good. Things are finally heading in the right direction again......
Once I got the initiative to work on the walls, they went pretty quick and the sanding job came out pretty good for not having done any drywall work in over a year plus. I then caulked the ceiling panels into the crown and the crown into the wall, plus the wainscoting trim. Then it was a good coat of primer on everything. The ceiling was done with Valspar ceiling white.
From there though it was downhill quick. I had already picked out colors for the kitchen, bath, and trim work. After work I stopped by Lowes to pick up the paint, but forgot the trim color. So I quick picked out what I thought was an antique white, got the paint made up and was all ready to go. It was Thursday morning when I got to do the first coat. Wednesday I had to put a new engine in the splitter because it threw a rod - but that's another story! Anywho so I put the first coat on the wainscoting and quickly realized that color was really a tan more than a white - oops. After I finished it grew on me some though and actually would go really good with the kitchen green, but the blue I wasn't so sure. So then came the blue. As soon as I started putting it on I knew it was a bust. More of a Miami beach pool blue than something that belonged in an old house. The "Fiesta" in the name should have given it away.
Friday night I wanted to stop by Lowes and get some new colors so I could start Saturday morning. Well I ended up staying a few hours late so skipped Lowes. When I got home there was still time before we had to go to the Neil Young concert (he can still ROCK!) so I stopped at the Depot around the corner and picked out some new colors. I figured I've had pretty good luck with Behr in the past so what the heck.
Then came Saturday.... I start the wainscoting and quickly notice either Behr got worse or working with Valspar all summer put Behr in a new perspective. It was thinner and much worse with runs. When I would go back to touch up a run it would pull the drying paint pretty bad. I got through that and figured I'd clean up with the second coat. It continued to get worse. Then I go to roll out the blue. Cutting in, I liked the color and seemed OK at first - but then going back to drying sections was the same pulling problem. Just didn't seem like it was biting to the wall. Finally rolling it out, the roller would pull where I cut. After two walls I got really frustrated with the paint, worse than anything I'd ever worked with...... then the runs started. I tried to touch up with the roller and again the paint would want to pull off. All right - I'll let things dry before I go on any further. Fifteen minutes later I come back and the damn paint is literally running down the walls! In a panic I go to wipe a run off the wall before it sets, but it already had skinned over and that just made things worse. A bunch of 4 letter words later I walked away to let thing dry over night with a space heater in the room and stopped by Lowes on the way to work and get my third set of colors, and some high build primer - swearing off Behr paint the whole time.
Sunday morning it took over 3 hours using an orbital sander to clean up two half walls in a 5x8 bathroom. It was a real mess. It was never going to come back to the condition I had it with the first primer coat after freshly sanded walls. The corners I used a little caulk to clean the runs up and along the wainscoting joint. The wainscoting would have to wait, one mess at a time. After the high build prime was on things looked a little better. I got the blue on and finally felt a little better.
The wainscoting had some issues with runs in the joints which I'll never get out, just too time consuming. I sanded the flats some and put the new trim color on. Finally things looked good and the scheme was what we had in mind for the room. I installed the vintage porcelain sconce and new gfi and switches. Then another test fit of the high tank and marked where the medicine cabinet I'm restoring will go. Also mounted a vintage TP holder I picked up.
So today with the painting pretty much finished I did a final sanding of the floors and applied some "golden oak" stain which really brought out the oak floors. A couple coats of poly on the floor and I can finally start moving fixtures back in for good. Things are finally heading in the right direction again......
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Still Avoiding Sanding
I've been finding every possible job to tackle in the powder room taht doesn't involve sanding the walls - pretty sad for such a small room! But I'm about to the point where I just need to get it over with. The trimwork is all but complete now except for casing which is yet to be made. The caps for the wainscotting is finished, just a simple piece with a bead routered. The sill for the window is in place....same bead detail.
I went ahead and installed the metal crown for the tin ceiling too. To give myself a nailer and added support for these flimsy pieces, I ripped some square stock and installed on the wall and ceiling where the crown sits. This worked out really well.
On the corners, the first piece goes flat and then you have to trace out the profile cut for the other side to meet it. It made up a respectable corner.
Not much else getting done these days on the house while catching up on working my wood pile for the winter - about 2 cords left to split.
I went ahead and installed the metal crown for the tin ceiling too. To give myself a nailer and added support for these flimsy pieces, I ripped some square stock and installed on the wall and ceiling where the crown sits. This worked out really well.
On the corners, the first piece goes flat and then you have to trace out the profile cut for the other side to meet it. It made up a respectable corner.
Not much else getting done these days on the house while catching up on working my wood pile for the winter - about 2 cords left to split.
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